One gloomy, Winter’s day, I was browsing the Sunday Times and in the magazine supplement, there was a review of a suggested 48 hours in Lucca. Lucca is Hollywood’s idea of a fantasy Tuscan city and the old town’s barrage of preserved gothic towers and Renaissance piazzas has a cinematic grandeur. As it was the LOML (love of my life’s) birthday this year in April and given the very tough year we had put in, I just booked it, there and then cleared the diary with our son and his wife to mind our dear Scout and Lillie (dogs). Not only did our son mind our dogs, but he paid for our trip. I downloaded the Duolingo Italian app and did a half hour every day and we were set to go!
In the supplement, they gave some suggestions of hotels. and the Palazzo Rocchi looked like everything that we could want. The description “an empire style mansion dating back to the 13th century and complete with unbeatable views of Piazza San Michele and its wedding cake basilica. The rooms and suites all have hand-painted walls and family heirloom furnishings, and it’s so atmospheric you could easily imagine a noble’s harpsichord playing in the sitting room. ” I thought – a home from home really – we could be comfortable here!
The day before, rushing around like a blue arsed fly, Dan said the words Heuston hates to hear “Brenda, we have a problem”. It transpired that the Italians had decided to have an Air Traffic Controller’s Strike. Our flight had been cancelled. Not only that, but we here in Ireland were also going through a few protests on many roads, including the one leading to the airport. This was at 12 noon. By 1 pm, our son had found us a flight to Verona at 6pm. I quickly looked up a hotel in Verona that was close to the train station and found one that was all of a three minute walk away. Clothes were flung into the cases, taxi called and I cannot honestly say I was at my calmest. We made the flight, which was delayed and arrived in a very plain, but very friendly hotel at about 11pm. I drank a negroni, as you do, and Dan had a beer, chatted with a lovely young man who spoke many languages and I attempted my pigeon Italian, threw ourselves into bed despite a brawl with the Air Conditioning (it won), and took a train the next morning to Florence then a platform change onto Lucca. It all took about three and a half hours. To be honest, the whole thing was easy, frenetic, fascinating by turns. We even considered that, in the future, it might be the way to travel throughout Europe,
The sun was shining in Lucca. Our hotel didn’t open until 3pm so what could we possibly do until then…..perhaps have lunch and an aperol spritz, or two, in the leafy and gorgeous Piazza Napoleone. Nothing better than listening to conversations, no rush, and weather of about 21 degrees. We headed to our hotel, which was hiding into the wall behind a glorious old door and terrifying knocker. It was everything we wished for. And so was the welcome. They were charming hosts, and my cousin from Canada, had left a bottle of celebratory Prosecco for us and the hotel, some pastries.
After sipping the prosecco, it was time to explore. The Mura di Lucca, or city walls, is a 4km long curtain of red brick that shields the medieval old town. It contains gates, hidden doors, hanging gardens and an elevated promenade. Glorious for cycling, walking, browsing (there was a flower market not unlike our very own Bloom in the Phoenix Park). We had originally thought we might cycle, as its very easy to hire bikes http://noleggiobiciclettelucca.com/ but sauntering suited us much better and the city of Lucca can be walked around so easily. It was safe, friendly, tranquil and gentle. Now, I know this was April, and perhaps later in the year, it might be a lot more noisy. I wouldn’t say it’s for any particular demographic, but in our 60’s, one soon to be 70, it appealed to us right off the bat. Back to the hotel, for a little nap accompanied by the trills and whistles and deep grunting of a husband snoring….
We had decided to book restaurants before we went over. It gave us a chance to really take our leisure and not worry about finding food. Plus it had the extra bonus of finding somewhere that we had checked up with reviews and none or our meals disappointed. We had booked https://www.ristorantemecenate.it/en/homepage-en/ for our first night. It’s described as “the only restaurant with a hole in its sock, and not afraid to show it”, Local produce, rustic ambience and just great food and service. Dogs are allowed in restaurants in Lucca. This is the place to go if you want to try the Lucchese staples of roast pigeon, tripe, roast rabbit with beans (Coniglio nostrle arrosto). Its very laid back and it has an interesting interior, stemming from the fact it used to be a former laundry.
We then wandered to find an after dinner drink and found the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro. It was buzzing, filled with arches and entrances filled with cafes and restaurants. Apparently it was built in the Middle Ages upon the ruins of a 1st centuryAD roman amphitheater. A nice Limoncello and a chat with a waiter, who once he heard we were Irish, ran in to get his phone and show us a picture of himself with Glen Hansard. He didn’t ask for one with us….
Day Two: Next morning dawned with a sunny day. We hadn’t booked breakfast, and we were right beside https://www.buccellatotaddeucci.it/. The saying goes, if you haven’t eaten buccellato, you haven’t seen Lucca. This is a raisin-filled sweet bread produced right across the city. It is usually dipped in vin santo dessert wine or coffee. Actually, we didn’t eat it that morning, and just had the best coffee and croissant, watching the world wake up on the cobbled street, in the shadow of the San Michele.
We are creatures of habit when we visit a city; we just adore taking walking tours. The Tourist office is a great resource and so we found a tour https://www.luccainfoguide.it/ that was commencing and meeting at Puccini’s statue, very close to our hotel
The tour which was very intimate and informative, lasted about two hours of leisurely walking and lots of food suggestions. We covered the Piazza San Michaele, Piazza San Marino, through the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, Piazza san Frediano and finished at the City Walls. We dipped into restaurants making pasta and watching looms at work. Lucca was a major European centre for luxury silk production, taking inspiration in the 13th and 14th centuries from Persian, Byzantine and Chinese influences. The last silk firm closed in 1785. Silk is very expensive and few shops create their own goods, now.
We had lunch at Trattoria da Leo https://www.trattoriadaleo.it/ – again lovely and then walked to Palazzo Pfenner. This is a 17th century palazzo with a beautiful baroque garden attributed to Filippo Juvarra. The garden features classical statues, lemon trees and a central fountain. In the mid 19th century, the area of the garden facing the palazzo became home to the craft brewery of Felix Pfanner, an Austrian brewer. He arrived in Lucca following a decree issued in 1845 by Duke Charles Louis of Bourbon who requested a skilled German beer maker. We walked the gardens, faces held up to the sun, and then visited the museum. It was within the rooms of this palazzo that a dramatic love story unfolded between Prince Frederick of Denmark and a lucchese noblewoman, Maria. They had an intense romance ended by the prince’s return to Copenhagen. Some years later he married another; the noblewoman, Maria, got herself to a nunnery. 17 years later, the two met again, at the express request of the now King and they whispered their goodbye in the garden. The museum itself is a bit of a peculiarity among Italian palaces, because of its brewing history and it now mainly exhibits surgical instruments but with some historical collections and period furnishings. I adore feeling I am walking on someone else’s history!
Then off to the Basilica di san Frediano. There are 70 churches within the city walls and walking around on the cobbled streets, filled with softly faded terracotta, yellow and green buildings, feels like being wonderfully trapped in a Renaissance painting. This is one of the oldest places of worship in Lucca. According to tradition, Saint Fridiano, bishop of the city from 560 to 588 founded the church (he was once an Irish bishop). The mummified body of Saint Zita is kept in the basilica. As an aside, I can remember being given a book of saints when I was a child and I distinctly remember the image of Zita; she was reputed to be carrying bread for the poor and she was reported to her master, who confronted her. Upon opening the cloak, however, it was found to be full of flowers. Anyhoooooo, her body is kept here. The church is famous for the large mozaic on its facade. We climbed the 199 steps (we miscounted but were assured there was that exact number) and looked over at the view of Lucca. Worth it, if you don’t mind stairs; wonderful bells at the top.
A full day, but actually wasn’t tiring. We went to a glorious exhibition of Giovani Boldini. I just loved each and every one of his paintings. If you ever get a chance to see any of his paintings – just go, I urge you. Although I guess it’s all subjective. He adored women and was sympathetic to them (loved them, in fact) and was an interesting man. The exhibition was called La seduzione della pittura and it highlights his role as a master of the Belle Epoque. “Boldini’s women embody a fluid and uninhibited grace, revealing without hesitation an erudite ideal of beauty. Through the act of undressing, they affirm their self-determination as mature, emancipated individuals, fully conscious of their own feminity”.This exhibition runs until June 2026.
Puccini Square for an aperol Spritz, then back to hotel to make ourselves beeuuuuuuuutiful for our dinner which we had booked in Buca di Sant Antonio https://www.bucadisantantonio.com/en/. This was just a little more upmarket to the first night; but really good food, again, and the staff sang Happy Birthday. Who told them, I wonder?? Would highly recommend.
Day Three : Again breakfast next door. Then onto mass, purely because, at the Duomo di san Martino. You know, sometimes its a lovely thing to do – to get back to your roots. Lots of incense swishing or as Dan called it as a child, “Holy Smoke”. I was delighted that the prayer guide was easy to read – the singing was glorious as was the tradition. Perhaps the most important legend in Lucca is that of the Volto Santo held in the Duomo, of a wooden crucifix said to be carved by Nicodemus shortly after the resurrection of Christ. Then just outside to La Festa della Liberta of Lucca. Their very own celebration of their liberty from Pisa. This is held on the Sunday after Easter and it celebrates the city’s 1369 freedom from Pisa. it featured medieval costumes, the best drummers and agile flag throwers. The drums are exciting to listen to, you can feel them in your core and the flag throwers, quite magnificent. Lunch was had at Trattoria il Baffardello, very traditional and quite yummy.
A leisurly stroll to the Puccini Museum. This was Puccini’s birth house. Giacomo spent a happy childhood in this house until the death of his father in 1864. After many permutations with the house, Puccini was able to buy back the house and it as remained the property of Puccini and his heirs. In 1974, Giacomo’s daughter in law, Rita dell’Anna, donated the birthhouse to the Puccini Foundation with the understanding that it would become a museum dedicated to Puccini. This museum also shows us his love of hunting and of a married woman who then became his wife. His music leads us through the wonderful rooms, past so many photographs and historical references and literature, and letters The museum also features a 1901 Steinway piano. On this restored piano, Puccini composed much of his music, specifically his final opera, Turandot. The piano still has the orginal tapestry on its stool. There is a story that Andrea Bocelli used it in one of his concerts; purely because my sister adored Andrea, that stuck in my mind
Onto a wonderful black and white photographic exhibition at the Auditorium S. Romano, then torture ourselves into looking glorious for our last restaurant Osteria Miranda https://www.osteriamiranda.it/. Close to the city walls…. we had the tasting menu and it was superb. Again. Home to bed , home to Dublin in the early hours via Pisa airport about 30 mins away. Home, James, and don’t spare the horses. Just a wonderful time.
Just go…it’s so accessible, lovely to walk around and has gorgeous shops, restaurants and cafes.
Brenda
Slippers in the Rain 